Journal

On the habit of not smelling

Olfactory attention is a perceptual skill most people have let lapse. It can be recovered, the way perfumers and sommeliers recover it daily.

Walk into a house that is not your own and you smell it at once. The particular weather of someone else’s life, their cooking oil, their detergent, the wood of their stairs, a dog you have not yet seen. Walk into your own house and you smell nothing. The air is simply neutral, transparent, the absence against which other things register. This is not because your home has no smell. It has a strong and continuous one. You have stopped receiving it.

The nose habituates faster than any other sense. Within minutes of a constant odour, the receptors stop firing; the signal flattens to nothing. This is useful. A creature that kept smelling its own body, its own den, would have no attention left for the smell that mattered, the predator upwind, the smoke, the rot. So the system is built to discard the constant and report only the change. It is an instrument tuned to difference.

The cost of that efficiency is that most of us spend our days in a kind of olfactory silence we mistake for the way things are.

What atrophies, and how

Attention to smell is not lost the way a sense is lost. The apparatus is intact. What lapses is the practice of directing it, the deliberate turning of notice toward the nose, which language barely supports and culture rarely rewards. We have a precise vocabulary for what we see and hear. For what we smell we have almost nothing: a few borrowed words, a handful of comparisons, and then the long fall into nice and bad.

So the faculty goes unexercised. Not absent. Idle.

Perfumers and sommeliers demonstrate the alternative, and they are worth attention precisely because they are not mystics. They are technicians. A perfumer learns to hold several hundred raw materials in memory and to name them blind, to distinguish two cedarwoods, to place a single molecule inside a finished accord. A sommelier reads a glass the way a reader reads a page: cassis, wet stone, the green note of a stem. Neither is born with a better nose. They have trained the part that was always trainable, which is not the receptor but the attention behind it.

The training is unglamorous. It is repetition and naming. Smell the thing, name the thing, smell it again. Over time the brain builds the categories it lacked, and what was once an undifferentiated pleasantness resolves into parts. The world does not change. The resolution does.

What returns

Begin to notice again and the first thing that comes back is your own surroundings, the house you had stopped smelling. This requires only leaving and returning with intent, or moving an object you have lived beside for years up to your face. The wax of a candle never lit. The inside of a wooden drawer. The pages of a book held shut for a decade.

Then the days begin to differentiate. Morning air and evening air are not the same air; cold carries scent poorly and damp carries it far, which is why a coast after rain smells of more than a coast in dry wind, salt, weed, diesel from the harbour, the mineral note of wet stone. None of this is hidden. It is simply unattended.

A bar of soap is a small and honest instrument for this. It changes as it works. The top note that meets you dry is not the note that rises under hot water, and neither is the quiet thing left on the skin an hour after. Three smells from one object, available to anyone willing to slow down at the basin long enough to receive them in order. Most people receive only the first, and only once, and then habituate to it within a week of daily use.

This is not aromatherapy and it makes no promise about the state of your nerves. It is closer to literacy, the recovery of a perceptual channel that was switched on at birth and left to idle.

The nose will always discard the constant. That is its design and it will not be argued out of it. But attention is not the nose. Attention can be turned, and held, and taught what to look for. What it finds was there the whole time, in the air of the room you stopped smelling, waiting only to be addressed.